Energy Efficiency

Insulation Calculator

Calculate the depth, the quantity — bags of loose-fill, packages of batts or rigid board, or board-feet of spray foam — and the R-value you’ll achieve for an attic, wall, ceiling, or floor, using real R-value-per-inch figures for each material.

Updated 5 August 2026Transparent assumptionsHome & Energy calculator

How It Works

Required depth = target R-value ÷ the material’s R-value per inch (e.g. R-38 ÷ 2.5 for blown fiberglass = 15.2 in).

Depth (in) = Target R ÷ R-per-inch | Loose-fill bags = ⌈Area × Depth ÷ 12 ÷ bag coverage⌉ | Batts/board packages = ⌈Area ÷ package coverage⌉ | Spray foam = Area × Depth (board-feet)
  • For loose-fill (blown fiberglass, cellulose, or mineral wool): cubic feet = area × depth ÷ 12, then bags = cubic feet ÷ your coverage-per-bag figure, rounded up.
  • For batts, rolls, or rigid board: packages = area ÷ your coverage-per-package figure, rounded up — these are fixed-thickness products, so coverage is an area, not a volume.
  • For spray foam (open- or closed-cell): the quantity is board-feet = area × depth, because foam is sold and quoted by the board-foot, not by the bag.
  • R-value achieved = depth × R-per-inch, confirming you hit the target. Estimated cost = quantity needed × the price you enter.

Worked Example

1,000 sq ft attic, R-38 target, blown fiberglass (R-2.5/in), 40 cu ft per bag, $15/bag.

Required depth

38 ÷ 2.5 = 15.2 in

Cubic feet

1,000 × 15.2 ÷ 12 = 1,267 cu ft

Bags (at 40 cu ft/bag)

⌈1,267 ÷ 40⌉ = 32 bags

Estimated cost

32 × $15 = $480

Same attic as fiberglass batt (R-3.2/in), 88 sq ft/package

38 ÷ 3.2 = 11.9 in → ⌈1,000 ÷ 88⌉ = 12 packages

Same attic in open-cell spray foam

38 ÷ 3.7 = 10.3 in → 10,271 board-feet

R-38 in a 1,000 sq ft attic takes about 32 bags of blown fiberglass at 15.2 inches deep (≈$480 in material at $15/bag) — at the 40 cu ft per bag this example assumes; always use the coverage chart on the bag you buy. The same attic in a fiberglass batt product would need about 12 packages at that product’s 88 sq ft/package coverage, and in open-cell spray foam is quoted as ~10,271 board-feet (1 board-foot = 1 sq ft at 1 in) — three different ways the same R-38 target gets bought and priced.

How to Estimate Insulation: Depth, Bags, and R-Value

What this calculator estimates and who it is for

This tool works backward from the R-value you want to the practical numbers you need: how deep the insulation layer has to be, and how much material that depth and your area add up to — bags for loose-fill, packages for batts/rolls/rigid board, or board-feet for spray foam. It also reports the R-value you actually achieve at the calculated depth, and an optional material cost, so you can confirm you have hit the target and get a rough budget in one pass.

It is aimed at homeowners adding insulation to an attic, wall, ceiling, or floor, and at anyone pricing a job before buying material or renting a blower — whether that’s loose-fill fiberglass, cellulose, or mineral wool, fiberglass or mineral-wool batts and rolls, rigid foam board, or spray foam.

How the calculation works

Required depth is the target R-value divided by the material’s R-value per inch — a higher R-per-inch product such as closed-cell foam or a rockwool batt reaches the same R-value in far less thickness than blown fiberglass. That depth is multiplied by the area to get the volume or coverage needed.

For loose-fill (blown fiberglass, cellulose, or mineral wool), the bag count divides the cubic feet needed by the coverage-per-bag figure you enter from the product chart and rounds up. For batts, rolls, or rigid board, the package count instead divides the area directly by the package’s coverage area, since those are fixed-thickness products rather than a variable-depth fill. For spray foam, the quantity is reported in board-feet — area times depth in inches — because foam is sold and quoted that way. The R-value achieved is simply the calculated depth times the R-per-inch, which should match your target once the depth is set, and the cost estimate is the quantity times whatever price you enter.

Reading the result and ordering material

Use the depth figure to mark your target on the rafters or a depth gauge so you blow evenly to the right thickness everywhere — coverage falls short in the corners and eaves if you do not watch the depth. Order the bag count, then add a spare bag or two so you are not stopped just short of the far corner of an attic.

Always cross-check the bag count against the coverage chart on the product you actually buy. Manufacturers print bags-per-area at each R-value, and that chart, tuned to the real settled density, is more reliable than any generic per-bag figure.

Common mistakes

The biggest planning error is ignoring insulation that is already in place and ordering for the full target rather than the gap. Measure what is there, convert it to an R-value, and subtract it first. The second is comparing materials by depth instead of R-value — three inches of one product is not three inches of another.

People also blow attics short in the eaves where the roof meets the wall, leaving a cold ring around the edge, and they sometimes block soffit vents in the process. Use baffles to keep airflow paths open while still hitting full depth.

Practical tips

Air-seal before you insulate: caulk and foam the gaps, top plates, and penetrations, because insulation slows heat flow but does not stop air leaks, and a leaky attic wastes the R-value you paid for. Install rafter baffles at the eaves so soffit ventilation keeps working after the insulation goes in.

When you rent a blower, have a helper feed bags while you run the hose, and check the depth with a ruler in several spots as you go. Many stores lend the machine free with a minimum bag purchase, which makes blown fiberglass and cellulose genuinely DIY-friendly.

Limitations and when to confirm with a pro

This estimator covers loose-fill by the bag, batts/rolls/rigid board by the package, and spray foam by the board-foot, and assumes a bare area. It does not account for thermal bridging through framing, or design a vapor or air-barrier strategy — and spray foam, while quantified here, needs professional equipment to install. It also does not estimate energy-bill savings, since that depends on climate, current insulation, and HVAC efficiency in ways a general calculator cannot responsibly model.

Required R-values are set by climate zone and application in the energy code, and crawl spaces and cathedral ceilings have moisture rules of their own. Confirm the target R-value and any vapor-barrier requirements with the IECC or a local building official, and consult an insulation pro for spray foam or moisture-prone assemblies.

Assumptions & Best Uses

  • R-value per inch uses representative figures: blown fiberglass ~2.5, blown cellulose ~3.5, blown mineral wool ~3.0, fiberglass batt ~3.2, mineral wool batt ~4.2, XPS rigid board ~5.0, open-cell foam ~3.7, closed-cell foam ~6.5 (products vary within published ranges — check your specific product’s rating).
  • Loose-fill bag count uses your coverage-per-bag figure; batt/board package count uses your coverage-per-package figure; spray foam is quantified in board-feet (1 sq ft at 1 in).
  • No existing insulation is assumed — measure any existing insulation and subtract its R-value from the target first.
  • The cost estimate is material only, at the price you enter — it does not include tax, delivery, or installation labor.

Limitations

  • Actual coverage per bag or package varies by product and (for loose-fill) blowing-machine settings — always follow the manufacturer’s coverage chart.
  • Spray foam board-feet is a material quantity, not an installed price; foam is a professional install, so get a contractor quote.
  • Thermal bridging from framing (joists, studs) reduces the effective R-value of the assembly below the insulation’s rated value.
  • Does not estimate energy-bill savings — that depends on climate, current insulation, HVAC efficiency, and local energy prices, which vary too much for a general calculator to estimate honestly.

Frequently Asked Questions

What R-value do I need in my attic?

DOE recommendations by climate zone: Zone 1–2 (South): R-30–R-49. Zone 3–4 (Mid): R-38–R-60. Zone 5–8 (North): R-49–R-60. Check EnergyStar.gov for your specific zone. R-38 is the most common target for mixed-climate US homes.

Does this work for fiberglass batts, rolls, or rigid foam board — not just blown insulation?

Yes — select a batt, roll, or rigid-board option from the Insulation Type list and enter the square feet each package covers (printed on the wrapper) instead of a bag’s cubic-foot coverage. The calculator then reports packages needed instead of bags, using the same depth-and-R-value math, since batts and board are a fixed thickness per product rather than a variable-depth fill.

Does this cover rockwool or mineral wool insulation?

Yes, in both loose-fill (blown) and batt form. Mineral wool typically reaches a higher R-value per inch than fiberglass, especially as a batt (around R-4.2/in versus roughly R-3.2/in for a standard fiberglass batt), which the Insulation Type options reflect.

How do I add R-value to existing insulation?

Measure existing insulation depth. Subtract from target depth. Add new insulation on top — blown insulation works well over existing batts. Do not add vapor barriers between insulation layers. Batts: install with facing down, against existing insulation if any.

Can I use a regular blower to install blown insulation?

Many home improvement stores rent insulation blowers for free with purchase of a minimum number of bags. Blown fiberglass and cellulose are DIY-friendly. Spray foam requires professional equipment and training.

What is the difference between open-cell and closed-cell spray foam?

Open-cell foam (R-3.5–3.7/in): cheaper, flexible, excellent sound dampening, vapor-permeable. Best for interior walls and sound control. Closed-cell foam (R-6–7/in): rigid, highest R-value per inch, vapor barrier, waterproof. Best for rim joists, crawl spaces, and extreme climates.

What’s the difference between R-value and U-value?

R-value measures resistance to heat flow — higher is better insulated, and it’s the figure printed on almost all insulation sold in the US. U-value (or U-factor) is its mathematical inverse (U = 1/R) — lower is better insulated — and is more commonly used for windows, doors, and in UK/European building specifications. This calculator reports R-value throughout, since that’s what insulation products are actually rated and sold by; divide 1 by any R-value result to convert it to U-value (for example, R-38 ≈ U-0.026).

Can I get a cost estimate, not just a quantity?

Yes — enter your product’s price per bag, package, or board-foot (whichever applies to your selected type) in the optional price field, and the estimated material cost is shown alongside the quantity. Leave it at 0 to skip; installation labor, if you’re hiring a contractor, is separate and not included.

Will this tell me how much I’ll save on my energy bill?

No — energy savings depend on your climate, your current insulation level, your heating/cooling system’s efficiency, and local energy prices, all of which vary too much for a general calculator to estimate honestly. This tool sizes the material and its cost; for a savings estimate, use a home-energy-audit tool or professional that can measure your specific house.

How does the calculator turn R-value into bags, packages, or board-feet?

It first finds the depth needed by dividing your target R-value by the chosen material’s R-value per inch. For loose-fill, that depth and your area become a volume, divided by your coverage-per-bag figure and rounded up to whole bags. For batts, rolls, or rigid board, packages are simply your area divided by the package’s coverage area, rounded up, since those products come in a fixed thickness rather than a variable fill depth. For spray foam it reports board-feet (square feet times inches of depth), because foam is priced that way rather than by the bag. Either way, cross-check against the product’s own coverage chart.

I already have some insulation — how do I account for it?

The estimate assumes a bare cavity or attic floor. If insulation is already there, measure its depth, multiply by its R-per-inch to get its current R-value, and subtract that from your target before using the tool — you only need to add the difference. Topping blown insulation over existing batts works well; just do not sandwich a second vapor barrier between the layers.

Why does my actual coverage differ from the estimate?

Coverage per bag or package depends on the specific product, and for blown insulation, the blowing machine and how much the material settles, so two products of the same nominal type can cover different areas. Framing also creates thermal bridging that lowers the effective R-value of the assembly below the insulation’s rated value. Treat the quantity as a starting point, follow the manufacturer’s coverage chart, and buy a spare unit or two so you can hit the target depth everywhere.

Sources & References

Figures on this page are checked against primary, authoritative sources. Links open in a new tab.

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Home & energy disclaimer

Results are estimates based on the roof area, location, and cost figures you enter, plus general assumptions about panel efficiency and sunlight — not a site survey. Government subsidies, incentives, tax credits, VAT/GST treatment, and electricity rates vary by country, state, and utility, and change over time, so confirm current figures with an official government portal, your utility, or a licensed installer. This tool does not assess your roof's structural suitability, shading, orientation, or electrical wiring — get a professional site survey before purchasing a system. This is educational information, not financial, tax, or engineering advice.

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Authorship & verification

Written and maintained by

  • Formula and examples verified on 5 August 2026
  • Educational estimate only

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